Hosts: planting and care in the open field, growing from seeds

Garden plants

Many gardeners consider the hosta an unpretentious plant that does not require special care. At the same time, really beautiful, not "background" specimens are obtained only by those who are ready to pay enough attention to the flower Queen of the Shadow.
The most common mistakes in caring for hosts are associated with watering: hurried (moisture simply does not get to the roots of the plant), superficial (water is in the rosettes of leaves, provoking rot and fungal diseases), daytime (fraught with burns and diseases), evening (attracts slugs!) ...

  • How to properly water the host?
  • When and why do you need to break out peduncles?
  • How to prepare host bushes for wintering?
  • What are the dangers of liquid endorsements for a host?

Planting and caring for the host

  • Landing: in spring or late August and early September.
  • Bloom: mainly ornamental deciduous plants, the peduncles of which are recommended to break out before flowering, but some species and varieties attract with one-sided racemose inflorescences of various colors that appear in mid-late summer.
  • Lighting: bright light, partial shade, shadow.
  • The soil: any, except for dry and sandy, as well as clayey untreated soils. The optimal soil is nutritious, humus-rich, well-moistened and drained loam with a reaction from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline (pH 6.5-7.5).
  • Watering: under the root early in the morning. The soil around the bushes should be slightly damp all the time.
  • Top dressing: when grown in fertile soil, after planting, do not feed for 3-4 years. During the season, if necessary, until mid-July - with solutions of mineral complex fertilizers once every two weeks, after which feeding is stopped. In the fall - mulch from humus or compost.
  • Reproduction: seeds, dividing the bush, cuttings.
  • Pests: slugs.
  • Diseases: phyllostictosis, gray rot, sclerotinosis.

Read more about growing hosts below.

Hosta (Latin Hosta), or Function - This is a genus of herbaceous perennials of the Asparagus family, although it was previously assigned to the Liliaceae family. The host was named in honor of the Austrian botanist and physician N. Host, and its second name - the function - it received in honor of G.H. Funck, a German botanist. There are about 40 plant species in total.

The historical area of ​​the host is East Asia (Korea, China, Japan), the southwest of the Far East, Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Moisture-loving hosts grow along the banks of rivers and streams, on mountain slopes, on forest edges ... The Japanese consider the hosta flower to be a sacred plant, and leaf stalks are used as food as a delicacy. Having appeared in England, the hosta was not immediately able to impress the locals, but, once in the New World, she soon became the most popular plant. So much so that its popularity has spread to other continents.

Botanical description

The host plant has many faces. That is why it will fit into any garden composition. This is an ornamental rhizome plant that can grow very quickly into whole plantations. The main decoration of the hosta is its large leaves, which exist in all kinds of variations depending on the host species and variety. Hosta is versatile and unpretentious, cold-resistant and drought-resistant, grows well in the shade and is a worthy background for other plants. The hosta reaches its peak of beauty in its fifth year of growth.

Despite the variety of species and varieties, all hosts are stemless, herbaceous, plants, thickened compact and short-branched rhizomes of which have many filamentous roots, allowing plants to firmly anchor in the soil. Bluish, white, pink and purple hosta flowers, simple and double, collected in a brush, effectively rise on tall, almost non-leafy peduncles above the leaf rosette. Unlike all other shade-loving plants, whose flowers are usually a miserable sight, host flowers are really beautiful: funnel-shaped or funnel-bell-shaped, collected in one-sided racemose inflorescences. The hosta fruit is a leathery triangular box with numerous seeds that remain viable for about a year.

Host leaves, basal, lanceolate and heart-shaped, long-petiolate, pointed, with noticeable veins and striking in their color variety, are still their main advantage. Leaf colors vary depending on the host species and variety: from green in all shades, blue in all shades to white and yellow. Moreover, there are also a great many options for combining these colors on one sheet: strokes, spots, stripes, and so on. The texture of the hosta leaves is also diverse: crushed, wrinkled, waxy, with a metallic sheen, just glossy or matte ... The height of plants is on average 50-80 cm, but in culture there are both dwarf varieties not exceeding 15 cm, and giants above 120 cm.

Growing hosts from seeds

How to grow in a pot

Hosts reproduce by dividing the bush, by seeds, and also by cuttings. For those who prefer to breed hosts with seeds, you should know that growing hosts in this way depends on the pre-sowing treatment of the material with growth stimulants (soaking for half an hour in Epin, Kornevin, Zircon or aloe juice), since the germination of hosta seeds is weak - 70-80% ...

Some growers advise resorting to the stratification method (keeping seeds for a month in the cold) to improve germination.

The second very important factor for success is the sterility of the substrate, which should not contain fungi and other microorganisms, otherwise the seedlings may grow sick, so it is best to buy the substrate in specialized stores. The composition of the substrate should include perlite, peat and vermiculite.

In April-May, a drainage layer is placed in a pot pretreated with medical alcohol or a potassium permanganate solution, a substrate is poured and moistened well. Then hosta seeds are scattered over the surface, sprinkle them on top with a layer of substrate 5-7 mm thick, slightly compact it and, in order to retain moisture, cover the pot with glass or film. During germination, the soil temperature should be 18-25 ºC, and then the seedlings will appear in two or three weeks. Protect seedlings from direct sunlight, provide them with moderate watering, remove condensation in time. The seeds do not need bright light, so keep them in light shade until they emerge, but then place them in a well-lit area.

In the photo: Growing hosta seedlings from seeds

It is necessary to dive the seedlings into separate pots after the appearance of a pair of leaves: the seedlings are transferred to the soil, a quarter covered with sand. To moisten the dived seedlings, bottom irrigation is used: the host in a pot is placed in a deep pan with water and stays there until the top layer of soil "gets wet". Now the seedlings need to be hardened: remove the film or glass for several hours. After a week, remove the cover completely, and expose the host to fresh air for a short time, provided that the temperature is not lower than +18 ºC.

Keep in mind that hosta seedlings develop very slowly, and in general, a hosta grown from seed often loses its varietal characteristics.

Planting hosts in the garden

When to plant

Before planting the host, you need to choose an area where she will be comfortable. Remember that the hosta can grow without transplanting in one place for up to twenty years, and every year it will only be more beautiful. The optimal indicators are partial shade with protection from drafts, but remember: the brighter the hosta leaf, the more white and yellow fragments on it, the more light-loving the variety.

Motley hosts preferably grow in a shaded area at noon but full of sun in the morning and evening. Blue varieties should only be planted in the shade, two hours of sunshine a day will be enough for them. The thicker the shadow, the slower the hosta grows, but the larger the leaves and the taller the bush.

In the photo: Sprouted hosta sapling

Hosts need soil that is moist, rich in humus, neutral or slightly acidic, with good drainage. Hostas dislike only sand and heavy loam. It is best to prepare the soil for spring planting in the fall: spread a layer of organic fertilizer 10 cm thick over the allotted area and dig up the ground to the depth of a bayonet shovel. By spring, the soil on the site will be ready for planting. Landing of hosts in the ground is carried out when the threat of frost has passed. In our latitudes, this is the end of April - mid-May.

How to plant

Seedling holes are placed at a distance of 30-60 cm, depending on the type of plant being planted. For giant hosts, the distance between the bushes should be 80-100 cm. If you are planting seedlings from pots in the ground, water them several hours before planting. If you combine landing with dividing the host bushes, then remove dried, rotten or damaged roots from the sections. In the prepared holes, seedlings are placed from a pot with a lump of earth (or delenka) 2-3 cm below ground level, the hosta roots are carefully straightened, covered with earth, crushed and watered abundantly. The area around the root is mulched with crushed bark.

Photo: Mulched hosta seedling in the open field

Hosta care

Growing conditions

If the hosta grows in fertile soil, then it may not be fed for three to four years. The main food for the host is humus and compost, which are applied in the fall in the form of mulch. It is undesirable to get carried away with mineral fertilizers, but if you decide that they are needed, sprinkle granular fertilizers around the host after rain or abundant watering. Plants are fed with liquid fertilizers (root and foliar) once every two weeks until mid-July, and then they stop, otherwise the host will continue to grow new leaves and will not have time to prepare for winter.

How to grow hyacinths - when to plant and how to care

The soil around the plants should be moist all the time, especially around young hosts, therefore it is very important to water the plants on time, and watering must be carried out in the early morning and at the root, and not on the leaves, which deteriorate from getting water on them. In addition, the stream of water should not be strong, so that the soil is not compacted, but, on the contrary, can be saturated with water as deeply as possible. The darkening of the tips of the hosta leaves is a signal that the plants lack water.

In the photo: Growing a host in the open field

If you are interested in making the hosta bush look neat, you will have to break out the young flower stalks, otherwise the host will "fall apart" after flowering. The host needs to loosen and weed only at first, when it grows, the weeds will no longer be afraid of it. After three to four years, the host needs to split up as it will grow a lot. Dig up the hosta and separate the young cuttings from the main root. This will not harm a healthy plant.

Diseases and their treatment

Hosts are unpretentious plants, but Americans claim that the more host varieties in your collection, the higher the risk of getting an infected specimen. Sometimes hosts that are weak or frostbitten by spring frosts affect phyllosticosis - a fungal disease, manifested in the form of yellow-brown merging spots on the leaves. Sometimes the peduncles are affected by the fungus Phyllosticta aspidistrae Oud. Infected plants are removed and burned, and the soil in this place is disinfected.

In the photo: Hosta leaves turn yellow

Hosta suffers from gray rot (Botrys cinerea) and from sclerotinia (Sclerotinia). Rot affects the leaves of the hosta, fighting it with fungicides, which are based on folpet. Sclerotinia is a fungus, white cotton mold, detrimental to the root neck of the hosta. It is eliminated with dichlorane.

Pests and the fight against them

The main plant pest is slugs... A sign that the hosta has attracted these garden pests is large holes in the leaves. Dealing with them is simple: place bowls of beer around the host, and a day later go and collect the slugs that have slipped down to drink beer.

In addition to slugs, they are not indifferent to the host stem nematodes... Signs of their vital activity look like necrotic yellow spots spreading between leaf veins. A simple test will help to detect the appearance of nematodes: put finely chopped hosta leaves in a thin-walled glass, fill them with water for half an hour, and then look at the contents in the light. If there are nematodes, you will see the worms swimming in the water. It is impossible to fight nematodes, since chemicals will not destroy the eggs they have laid, and they will give new nematodes the next year. Plants will have to be exterminated within a radius of two meters from the affected specimen.

In the photo: Collecting hosta seeds after flowering

Danger to hosts pose caterpillars, which, appearing unexpectedly, can destroy the entire plant in just one night, as well as beetles and grasshoppers, after the invasion of which the leaves look like Swiss cheese. Only insecticides can rid the hosta of insects.

Hosts after flowering

After the flowers fade, the peduncles must be removed. In September, the host begins to prepare for the dormant period. At the same time, flower growers are seating the host. First, half an hour before seating, you need to water well the area on which you have to work. Then the bushes are dug up and divided so that each part has one or more deciduous rosettes. They are seated at a distance of 25-35 cm from each other, burying them at the same depth at which the mother plant was. Host roots grow horizontally, so the pits should be wide.

After planting, the plants need to be watered abundantly for the first time. It is necessary to finish the process of dividing and planting the host before mid-September, so that the "newbies" have time to take root in a new place before the onset of the autumn cold. It will take four weeks for young hosts to take root. Since spring, these delenki will begin to grow rather quickly: in two or three years they will become large adult plants.

Photo: Hosts in the garden after flowering

In the fall, work is carried out to insulate the site with the hosts on the eve of winter. For this, the site is mulched with leafy soil. This is especially necessary for hosts growing under trees: thanks to the mulch, the host will not have a lack of nutrients absorbed by the roots of the tree. Mulch, among other things, raises the level of the flower garden and this improves soil drainage.

Hosta species and varieties

Hosta flower in all its variety of species and varieties is widely used in landscape design. Hosta hybrid has more than 4000 varieties today. But there are not so many main types, on the basis of which this diversity arose. Host species that served as the basis for breeding:

  • Khosta curly (height 60 cm, leaves are wide, dark green with a white border, for example, Dream Weaver).
  • Hosta high (up to 90 cm tall, leaves are large, glossy, dark green, for example, Tom Schmid variety).
  • Hosta Fortune (height up to half a meter, leaves are green with a cream border, for example, host albopicta).
  • Hosta Siebold (up to 60 cm tall, leaves with distinct veins, for example, the Elegans variety).
  • Hosta wavy (up to 75 cm, leaves with a wavy edge, the middle is white with a green border with strokes, for example, host Undulata Mediovariegata).
  • The host is bloated (up to half a meter, leaves with pointed tips, for example, the Thomas Hogg variety).
  • Khosta plantain (up to half a meter, the leaves are bright green, glossy, for example, the Royal Standard variety).

In the photo: Hosta curly (Hosta crispula)

In the photo: Hosta high (Hosta elata)

Numerous host varieties are also classified: a) by color; b) in size. According to the color of the leaves, the hosts are divided into five groups:

  • blue host (hosta blue - B) - the color of the leaves is bluish-gray;
  • hosta yellow (Go) - combines all yellow-leaved hosts;
  • hosta green (Gr) - all shades of green;
  • host variegat (V) - variegated host varieties, as well as varieties with a light border along the edge;
  • host media choice (MV) - light leaves with a green border around the edge.

Photo: Hosta fortunei

In the photo: Hosta sieboldiana

In the photo: Hosta undulata

By size, hosts are divided into 6 groups:

  • dwarf - plants below 10 cm, Draft (D): Blue Mouse Ears (bluish leaves really look like mouse ears),
  • miniature - from 10 to 15 cm, Miniature (Mini): La Donna (bluish-yellow-green leaves),
  • small - from 16 to 25 cm, Small (S): Hosta Goldtone (green leaves with a white or yellow stripe), Headsmen Blue (blue-green leaves);
  • average - 30 to 50 cm, Medium (M, Med): Night Before Christmas (dark green leaves with a white center), So Sweet (green leaves with a creamy white border), White Feather (a unique white hosta that over time gradually turns green);
  • big - from 55 to 70 cm, Large (L): Alvatine Taylor (bluish-green leaves with a greenish-yellow border), Golden Meadows (rounded wrinkled leaves with a golden middle, wide green border and pale green strokes);
  • giant - above 70 cm, Giant (G): Blue Vision (bluish-green leaves), Sum of All (the middle of the leaf is green, along the edge - a wide golden border).

In the photo: Hosta swollen (Hosta ventricosa)

In the photo: Hosta plantaginea


  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Asparagus
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Information about Garden Plants
  6. Information on Perennial Plants
  7. Information about Herbaceous plants

Sections: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Flowering Asparagus Ornamental deciduous plants on X

Hosta: planting and care in the open field

Hosta (funkiya) is a genus of universal unpretentious herbaceous perennials of the asparagus family, widely in demand in ornamental gardening. The culture received both its names in honor of the European botanists - the Austrian N. Host and the German G.H. Funk. Outwardly, the luxurious hosta bushes are very reminiscent of lush bouquets of large plantains, painted in bluish-gray, golden, emerald and white-green tones.

An unusual plant was brought to Europe from Japan, but, oddly enough, local gardeners did not appreciate its delicate charm. But in the New World, the host made a real sensation and from there she began her triumphant march through the flower gardens of the whole world.

Planting and caring for a creeping tenacious in the open field

Ayuga is not picky about planting and leaving in the open field. You can decorate landscape design with it both in spring and autumn, plant with seeds, bush rosettes, seedlings grown independently or purchased in a store.

Terms and conditions of boarding

In spring, Ayuga begins to sow from mid-May, and in regions with a warm climate, work begins in April. The plant tolerates short-term frosts down to -10 ° С. Planting of a tenacious plant in autumn is carried out in the first half of September, while the weather is warm, there is no threat of frost. Bushes are propagated by division from May to September. The day for work is chosen warm, windless and dry.

How to plant correctly

Before creating a landscape design with a tenacious, the site is dug up, fertilized with organic matter, minerals and superphosphate. If the grass is grown by sowing seeds in the ground, then small holes are first made, in which several seeds are placed, sprinkled with earth and watered.

In the case of planting seedlings, the sockets are placed one in each hole, at a distance of at least 20 cm from each other so that the point of their growth remains on the surface of the earth. The soil around each seedling is compacted and watered abundantly.

When multiplying by division, adult bushes are dug up, cut into pieces and immediately planted. They do this as the tenacious grows, so that it does not fill the entire territory with itself.

Follow-up care

Planting and caring for a perennial tenacious, the photo of which is presented below, is very easy. Because of this, novice florists often use it to create landscape design. The plant copes well with drought, but to maintain its decorative properties, it must be moistened at least once a week. In dry weather, the stems and leaves may droop, but after the liquid enters the soil, they will rise and start again. Fertilization of the area where Ayuga grows is not necessary, but if you apply complex fertilizing once a month, then the bloom of the tenacious will be more lush and abundant. Every 5-6 years, planting should be enriched with nitrogen.

When caring for the grass, you need to limit the area of ​​its growth. To do this, pebbles are pressed into the ground around the perimeter of the flower bed.

Preparing for winter

Ayuga is a cold-resistant plant, if the winter in the growing region is snowy, then she will calmly transfer it without additional shelter. But in the case when there is almost no white cover, it is advisable to protect the planting with spruce branches, fallen leaves or any breathable covering material.

If the plant is very young, then it must be insulated for the winter, despite the amount of snow.

Hosta: planting and care in the open field with a photo

Caring for the host in the garden is very simple. It consists in a combination of watering, weeding, feeding and loosening.

Watering. Hosts are moisture-loving plants. Water them at the beginning of the day on average. In hot weather, the amount of fluid is increased.
Lighting. In brightly lit places, hosts can lose varietal and species characteristics. The ideal place for them is slightly darkened areas. In the sun, the leaves of the funkia will change from blue and purple to the typical green.

Top dressing. Hosta garden flowers need certain fertilizers. During the growth period, they are fed with mullein infusions, compost, saltpeter, potassium sulfate. During the growing season, the process is carried out three times:

  • At the beginning of the summer cottage season
  • During budding
  • After flowering.

Pests. The hosts' main threat is slugs. When attacking plants, they leave terrible holes in green and blue leaves. To overcome them, open containers with beer are left around the bushes. In a day, pests slide down to the feast. In addition to slugs, the host is threatened by stem nematodes, caterpillars, grasshoppers.

Diseases. Often, weak specimens of a plant infect fungal diseases. For example, phyllosticosis. Sometimes the stalks are affected by the fungus Phyllosticta aspidistrae Oud. Such plants are usually burned and the soil is disinfected. Gray rot and skerotinia also pose a threat to hosta bushes.

Hosta (Hosta, sometimes use the inscription Hostia) is a genus of perennial herbaceous plants from the Asparagaceae family, "baptized" in honor of Nikolaus Thomas Host (1761-1834) during his lifetime (in 1812). He was an Austrian botanist, an avid systematizer of wildlife (his memory is preserved in the form of the Latin word "hostii" in the names of 27 separate species of terrestrial flora) and, in addition, the personal physician of Emperor Franz I, and most importantly - a colleague of the "Baptist" , another Austrian botanist Leopold Trattinnik (1764-1849). The genus described was originally attributed to the Liliaceae family, and until 1905 for almost a century it was called Funkia, for the German pharmacist, pharmacist and botanist Heinrich Christian Funk (1771-1839) also enjoyed taxonomy and was familiar with “ the right people ...

Perennials. Preservation until planting.

1. Sprinkle the rhizome with buds with moist peat in a container and store in the basement (balcony, veranda, refrigerator) with a low positive temperature (up to 5 ° C). Moisten the peat periodically.

2. If the rhizome has begun to sprout, plant it in a pot with fertile soil, put it on a glazed loggia (it is cooler there than in a living room). Treat as if you were indoor, keeping the soil moderately damp.

3. Plants with a closed root system before planting in the ground can be stored, periodically watered, on a windowsill. It is also better to put it on a glazed loggia (balcony), where the air temperature is lower.

Before any method of preservation, treat the planting material in a fungicide solution.

Hosts. Planting in spring.

1. Choose a place for planting: for green hosts (including blue varieties) it is shaded, for variegated - more sunny. Do not even plant variegated hosts in the open sun to avoid sunburn.

2. In a previously prepared hole (flower bed), make such a hole (20-30 cm) so that the root system is freely located and the roots do not bend. Do not make the hole larger than 30 cm, because the root system does not grow deeply.

Use scissors to trim too long roots out of the total mass. Place the planting material in the hole and cover with earth. The root collar should be flush with the ground, when the soil settles, it will deepen a couple of centimeters, which is permissible for the host. Pour 5-10 liters of water and mulch with cut grass.

Hosts. Planting in the fall.

1. Choose a place for planting: for green hosts (including blue varieties) it is shaded, for variegated - more sunny. Do not even plant variegated hosts in the open sun to avoid sunburn.

2. In a previously prepared hole (flower bed), make such a hole (20-30 cm) so that the root system is freely located and the roots do not bend. Do not make the hole larger than 30 cm, because the root system does not grow deeply.

Use scissors to trim too long roots out of the total mass. Place the planting material in the hole and cover with earth. The root collar should be flush with the ground, when the soil settles, it will deepen a couple of centimeters, which is permissible for the host. Pour 5-10 liters of water and mulch with cut grass.

Hosts. Top dressing.

Although hosta is not demanding on fertilization, when using them, the leaves will be larger and the color will be rich.

1. After watering, mulch the host with humus or compost. The layer should be thin to avoid podoprevanie. This mulch has two functions: moisture retention and top dressing.

2. Use a complex mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in approximately the same ratio. When applying, try not to get on the leaves. Yellowing of the leaves may indicate a lack of trace elements. Spray the leaves on both sides with a mineral fertilizer containing a complex of trace elements in addition to nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

Perennials. Top dressing in the fall.

At the end of the growing season, the plant needs potassium and phosphorus, so loosen the soil and pour a glass of bone meal and a couple of handfuls of ash around the plant. Mulch (garden soil, soil, peat).

When using chemical fertilizers per 1 sq. M. use at choice:

1.40-70 grams of potassium sulfate and superphosphate and dissolve in 10 liters of water (when using a solution)

2. ready-made complex fertilizer marked "Autumn" according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Eliminate nitrogen from fall dressing as otherwise, the rhizome grows strongly, fattens and subsequently does not tolerate winter well and is affected by pathogens.

Hosts. Pruning in the summer.

Cut off the flowering arrow as soon as it appears. For flowering hosts, prune the stems immediately after flowering so that the plant does not waste energy on seed formation.

If a rosette of green leaves appears in variegated forms, remove it.

Hosts. Pruning in the fall.

Cut off all the leaves with a pruning shears (by the time of pruning, they should all be yellowed), leaving stumps about 10 cm high. Pruning is done largely for aesthetic purposes, because hosts overwinter well if the leaves are left.

Perennials. Removing the shelter.

Rake off the mulch so that the soil warms up better and the root system activates the suction function faster. In this case, the plants will start growing earlier and will develop better. Refresh the mulch layer after the soil has warmed up.

Perennials. Shelter.

Mulch the area around the plant with a mound to a height of 15-20 cm.

Cut grass with peat, bark or compost will protect the roots from frost in winter and also serve as organic fertilizer in spring. You can use regular garden soil as mulch.

Host. Watering.

The soil under the hosta should always be slightly damp. It inhibits evaporation and the hosta's spreading foliage that creates shade. But in the early years, when the hosta is still not overgrown, mulch the soil to retain moisture. The host signals the need for watering by dropping the leaves.
When watering hosts, try not to get water on the leaves in order to avoid the development of a fungal infection. And water early in the morning so that the leaves dry out well during the day if moisture gets on them.

Hosts. Watering.

The soil under the hosta should always be slightly damp. It inhibits evaporation and the hosta's spreading foliage that creates shade. But in the early years, when the hosta is still not overgrown, mulch the soil to retain moisture. The host signals the need for watering by dropping the leaves.

When watering hosts, try not to get water on the leaves in order to avoid the development of a fungal infection. And water early in the morning so that the leaves dry out well during the day if moisture gets on them.

Perennials. Prevention of diseases in the spring.

Do a preventive copper treatment. Spray the plants and the adjacent soil from a fine sprayer with a 0.5% solution of copper oxychloride (50 g per 10 l of water) or a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid during root treatment, pour 2-3 liters of such a solution under the bush.

These perennials rarely suffer from diseases, so one preventive treatment per season is enough: when the green mass grows.

If signs of disease are found, remove damaged shoots and spray with commercial products according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Hosts. Pest prevention.

The main pests are slugs, which leave holes in the leaves. For prevention, use environmentally friendly products: eggshells, fresh sawdust or cones. Place them under the bush, but you need to turn them around regularly to keep the edges sticking out and sharp.

For destruction, use chemicals according to the manufacturer's instructions. To achieve the effect, sprinkle these granules regularly (every two weeks).

Possible problems

An important factor for gardeners will be the hosta's resistance to pests - only slugs can hit it, but this is only when the plant is placed in a damp, dark place. Harmful insects spoil the leaves, gnawing holes in them.

The fight against these insects consists in regular inspection of the bushes, mechanical collection and destruction. Slugs love to feast on soft tissues, so host varieties with harder leathery foliage suffer much less from them. Alternatively, you can mulch the soil under the bushes with shell rock or fine crushed stone.

It happens that the funkiya is infected from other garden flowers with brown spot (phyllosticosis). Affected plants are destroyed, the soil is disinfected with a special fungicide. Bushes are treated with biopesticides against pathogens of bacterial and fungal diseases.

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