How to deal with a late harvest of tomatoes

The time has come when in greenhouses you need to completely harvest the tomatoes, regardless of whether they are ripe or not. Otherwise, they will just start to rot. After all, the nights are cold, and the days are too. That and look, frosts will begin ...

So you have collected all tomato harvest... There are fully ripe, blange and green fruits here. They are still to mature and mature.

The varieties here are very different: salad and for canning, quickly perishable and capable of lying for a long time, large-fruited and small-fruited.

Now our task is not to let the crop die. After all, tomatoes, unlike carrots, zucchini and other vegetables, are not stored for a long time. The first thing to do with the collected "collection" is to sort everything out. What we are going to store for a long time, we will put in one box. What goes straight to recycling - to another box, etc. We put small firm tomatoes intended for canning separately: they will lie down for a while without spoiling.

Now let's start working with these boxes (or basins, bowls - depending on who got what kind of crop). Let's deal with tomatoes intended for long-term storage. There are tomatoes that can lie for a month, and there are tomatoes with a keeping quality gene - these can be stored until the New Year and even until March 8. You just need to create conditions for them. Separately put ripe tomatoes, ripening (blanche) and green.

They require different temperatures for better preservation. Under industrial conditions, ripe tomatoes are stored at temperatures of 1 ... 2 ° C, blanche - 4 ... 6 ° C, green - 10 ... 12 ° C. Most gardeners do not have such storage conditions, at best it is a basement, more often verandas, balconies, loggias, etc. So we will use what we have.

Consider that the higher the storage temperature, the faster the ripening of tomatoes. The fastest ripening occurs at a temperature of about 25 ° C (if higher, they wilt quickly), however, yellow rings with immature pulp remain around the stalks. Dozing can be done both in the dark and in the light. An important storage condition is that there should be no stagnation of air, otherwise the tomatoes will begin to choke. For quick ripening, you can put tomatoes in 2-3 layers with the stalks up. You can speed up the process by adding 2-3 ripe tomatoes to unripe tomatoes: reddening tomatoes release ethylene, which accelerates the ripening of nearby tomatoes. Every 2-3 days we will review the harvest, swap layers, and remove reddening tomatoes. Usually the lower layers ripen earlier. If, on the contrary, it is required to slow down ripening, we put them in one layer.

Large tomatoes ripen faster. Small green specimens are able to lie for a long time in a city apartment. In the end, they will turn red, even beautiful, and they can decorate New Year's dishes. However, their taste will not be so hot.

It is better to use such tomatoes in cabbage soup and borscht. Ripe tomatoes should be moved to a cooler room. But all the same, they will not lie long. Such tomatoes need to be sorted out daily to prevent spoilage, because in the cold, especially if the air is humid enough, tomatoes tend to rot more often. We will select those that have begun to soften. They must be eaten immediately or recycled. The tomato must not be allowed to rot. Even with a small speck of rot, the tomato is best thrown away, and here's why.

Recently, more and more scientists have been warning us about the severe harm to health of mycotoxins - poisons secreted by molds. There is more and more research on this topic. So, recently it was found that, for example, a pear with a small speck of rot is all poisonous. We cut out such a speck out of habit, and eat the rest. It's easier with an apple - everything poisonous there is concentrated in a rotten place.

What about a tomato? So far I have not come across research on this topic. There is only a comic story about how one peasant ate a box of rotten tomatoes. The tomatoes in the box were good, but, sorting them every day, he always found at least one beginning to spoil there, and ate it - not to waste the good. Perhaps nothing terrible happened to him, but we do not know this. Therefore, it is better to play it safe, especially since heat treatment does not destroy mycotoxins.

And therefore, reddened tomatoes from boxes intended for storage, after ripening, must be immediately sent to workpieces, since they will not lie for a long time.

We will not store tomatoes intended for canning either, we can quickly preserve them. Tomatoes for salad purposes, if we don't have time to eat them before they start to deteriorate, we will urgently put them into processing - for juices, pasta, ketchups, natural lecho and other preparations. Salad tomatoes are practically not stored at all; in other years, due to excess moisture, they mostly crack on the bushes.

From their tomatoes are obtained amazingly tasty ketchups are obtained... No harmful additives. We'll have to tinker, but the stock will go for the whole winter. Here is one of the popular recipes at home:

Homemade ketchup. 2 kg of ripe tomatoes, 2 onions, 1 apple (preferably Antonovskoe), 60 g of 9% vinegar, 40-125 g of sugar (to taste), 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dry or 4-5 leaves of fresh basil, 2 sprigs of celery, 0.5 teaspoons of ground red pepper, 3 pcs. cloves, salt - to taste, 200 g of water.

Put salt, sugar, chopped cloves, pepper, vinegar into the water, bring to a boil. Add peeled tomatoes, finely chopped onion, grated apple on a fine grater, finely chopped celery and basil into the boiling solution. Cook, stirring constantly, until the onions soften and the water evaporates to form a ketchup consistency. Pour into jars, twist.

In recent years, I have been making the simplest preparation: I put the peeled tomatoes in a saucepan, bring them to a boil, stirring constantly, immediately pour them into sterile jars and roll them up. I put it under the pillows. I am not adding anything. I did not observe any cases of damage. But in winter, opening the jar, you can add salt, whatever you want. The taste and aroma of the workpiece is natural tomato.

And one more way of harvesting: I cut the peeled tomatoes into slices and dry them in dryer for vegetables until the consistency of raisins. Dries quickly. In winter, you can fill it with water to soften, and make whatever you want out of them. You can also eat dried, like original tomato sweets. Delicious.

Lyubov Bobrovskaya
Photo by the author

Is it possible to store carrots in which a carrot fly

Sometimes even in gardeners who tried to prevent damage to carrots, this fails and the larvae still penetrate the root crop. There is no chance of keeping the damaged crop in the cellar until next season.

Such carrots cannot be stored, since:

  • damaged roots are more prone to rotting, because the larvae leave waste products and bacteria in their moves
  • larvae, even at very low temperatures, are able to survive and pupate in spring - as a result, the next crop is also under attack
  • carrots become tasteless, and in places close to the larvae passages it is very bitter.

Experienced gardeners say that no amount of tricks will help in storing infected carrots.

Tomato is a vegetable that is quite popular among all gardeners. It is not only tasty when consumed fresh, but also subject to salting and pickling. To grow tomatoes, you need to choose the right seeds, which would correspond to the climate of the region with their quality characteristics. What are the best tomato seeds for open ground? We suggest you find out the answer to these questions from the article.

The best seeds for open ground

How to grow

There are 2 options for growing Octopus tomatoes - in the open field and in greenhouse conditions. The growing method depends on how productive the tomato will be. Gardeners are often interested in how to grow a tomato at home rather than on a professional farm.

In greenhouses

The technology of growing in a greenhouse involves a special configuration of premises with special equipment. Octopus f1 is a tall tomato, so the ceiling of the greenhouse must be high. Additionally, it is necessary to organize a system through which the tomato will trail.

Seeds for planting must be purchased from a specialist store. Homemade raw materials are not suitable for planting. The advantage of purchased seeds is that they have already been calibrated and processed by the manufacturer.

Planting begins in January-February; on cloudy days, the seedlings are illuminated. Before planting seedlings in the soil of the greenhouse, they are grown to 30 cm. The bushes will grow, therefore, when planting, they are distributed at a distance from each other.

Once the plant is planted, it is provided with strong supports to weave the crown. Plants are watered abundantly, mineral fertilizers are applied, soil is added and the lower foliage is removed.

At first, the bushes will stretch out like ordinary tall tomatoes, but by mid-August they will look like a tree. In some regions of the country, the Octopus tomato bears fruit until mid-October.

Attention! When grown in an ordinary greenhouse, the root can be dug up for the winter and planted again for the next season.

Large varieties of tomatoes for open ground and greenhouses

  • Initially, large-fruited is laid in the genetics of a variety or hybrid, and the better the growing conditions, the larger the fruits will be. Subject to correct agricultural practices, it is possible to achieve fruits with the weight indicated in the description of the variety, and even larger.
  • If agricultural technology is not given proper attention, the fruits of varieties in large-fruited tomatoes will still be larger than in conventional hybrids. As a rule, the first fruits will be the largest, the rest will be smaller.
  • Among the large tomatoes, there are fruits of various colors from yellow-orange, red to dark chocolate.

So, we present to your attention the best varieties of large tomatoes.

How to get a good harvest of strawberries - 5 tips from an experienced gardener

How to get a good harvest of strawberries? This question was asked, perhaps, by every summer resident, because garden strawberries (the official name for strawberries) is one of the most common and favorite garden crops, and it ripens in the beds earlier than other berries.

However, strawberries do not always please with a good harvest, although they are not a particularly capricious crop. And all because when growing it, some gardeners miss important nuances. Why is this happening and how to change the situation in your favor? We reveal the main secrets of a good strawberry harvest!

Of course, we proceed from the fact that initially you chose high-quality planting material, and also responsibly approached the choice of the place and timing of planting strawberries. Now it's up to agrotechnics.

1. Mulching strawberry beds

If you're really in the mood for a great strawberry crop, mulching your beds is a must. This most important technique allows you to solve two problems at once: to get rid of weeds that take water from the berries, and to keep the soil not dry and loose in any weather. Plus, your berries will stay clean and dry until they are harvested. Mulching is especially important if you do not have the opportunity to monitor the condition of the beds on a daily basis.

It is necessary to mulch the beds after they are thoroughly loosened and fertilized. As mulch, you can use film, non-woven materials, chopped straw, needles, a mixture of loose peat with well-rotted compost or humus, even mowed lawn grass or cardboard.

2. Proper watering of strawberries

The simplest thing you can do for your strawberries in order to increase their yield is to properly water the plantings. Yes, yes, everything seems so simple at first glance, but how seriously do you really approach the issue of the schedule and volume of watering strawberries?

The most common mistake is stopping regular watering after harvesting strawberries. It seems that the berries were harvested and the plantation can no longer be remembered so often. And in vain - after all, this culture begins to lay flower buds of the next year in the middle of summer, and if it is not watered, very few of them are formed. This means that there will be few fruits for the next summer. So don't be lazy and water your strawberries at least once a week for the rest of summer.

And in the early stages of development, do not forget how strawberries, with their superficial root system, love water and do not tolerate drying out of the soil. The drip irrigation method is best suited for these berry bushes, when moisture goes directly to the roots, without affecting the leaves and berries and without reaching the weeds in the neighborhood, although a sprinkler can also be used before flowering. Remember also that overflowing will not be beneficial, dampness is harmful to strawberries.

On average (if there is no major drought) watering is carried out once a week, teaching only during flowering and ripening of fruits up to once every five days. It is advisable to water strawberries early in the morning or in the evening, without the scorching sun. Water consumption should be about 0.5-0.7 liters per bush.

3. Timely feeding of strawberries

Feeding strawberries during flowering, fruiting, as well as after harvesting is a responsible business. During the season, plants need to be fertilized at least 3 times, and this should be done correctly and on time. It is best to carry out top dressing after watering or rain. How to feed strawberries for a good harvest?

The first time feeding is given in the spring, when the bushes were thoroughly cleaned of dry and diseased leaves, and the earth was loosened so that the root system would start growing faster. For these purposes, feed the strawberries with a solution of urea or mullein (1 teaspoon of urea or 2 cups of mullein per 10 liters of water). Consumption rate - 1 liter for each bush.

The second time, fertilizers are applied to the strawberry garden at the very beginning of flowering (budding period). To do this, 1 tbsp. nitrophosphate is diluted in 10 liters of water. Consumption rate - 1 liter for each bush.

After flowering, so that all the berries are large, the introduction of any complex mineral fertilizer will not interfere. You can 2 tablespoons. dilute superphosphate and 0.5 cups of ash in 10 liters of water. Consumption rate - 1 liter for each bush.

4. Protection of strawberries from diseases and pests

Most often, garden strawberries suffer from various ailments when berries ripen in cool and damp weather. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the early diagnosis of diseases of garden strawberries and their prevention.

After the first loosening of the beds, the plants themselves can be sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate as a preventive measure. Before flowering, be sure to treat strawberries from pests. If ticks, whiteflies, weevils have already appeared, Karbofos will help (after processing for an hour or two, cover the beds with foil).

Slugs and snails from berry bushes can be scared away by dusting the ground around with lime or ash. Proper agricultural techniques and regular spraying with fungicides (Maxim, Planriz, etc.) will save garden strawberries from diseases. During the ripening of berries, it is advisable to use preparations of biological origin - Fitosporin, Alirin-B, Baktofit, etc. You can also use folk methods - spraying plantings with onion, mustard or garlic infusion, dusting with wood ash.

Remember that strawberries are less sick if they are resumed at least once every 3 years (in a new place with good lighting).

5. Removing excess leaves and whiskers from strawberries

By consuming nutrients from the soil, strawberries can spend them either for fruit formation or for reproduction. Thus, by removing the whiskers, you can stimulate the plant to more abundant fruiting.In the spring, strawberries do not give too many mustaches, so you can remove them gradually, but regularly, or wait for their active growth and remove everything at once.

If they are not needed for reproduction, then even after the plant has finished fruiting, the shoots should still be removed regularly. However, if you need seedlings, then the mustache should be given the opportunity to build strong rosettes.

Removing excess leaves, especially those that cover the berries from the sun, will also be useful during fruit setting. Do not be afraid to overdo it - without damaging the bush, you can remove a third or even more of the entire mass of leaves, and strawberries, falling under the direct rays of the sun, will grow faster and larger.

When preparing berry bushes for winter, also do not forget about strawberry leaves and whiskers. All the leaves need to be cut off, the same should be done with the mustache, leaving one on the bush (next year, young rosettes will grow from them and berries will immediately appear). Before frost, the plant will have time to grow new strong young leaves and will better endure wintering, and in the spring the greens will start growing together. If you follow all these 5 tips on how to get a good strawberry harvest, then your berry beds will definitely delight you!

Tomato 'Heavyweight of Siberia' is a real Siberian!

Many tomato lovers love and prefer to grow large-fruited tomatoes. I also love them, I also prefer them, although I grow cherry, cocktail, and just medium-sized ones for pickling. Today, at the end of our wonderful and useful competition, I hasten to tell you about the 'Heavyweight of Siberia' tomato. I would not be surprised if you already know him, then we will exchange opinions! And I have been friends with this tomato for several years.

Look at the handsome heavyweights!

The seed-growing company "Siberian Garden" offers many interesting varieties of tomatoes for our climate. Once I liked the 'Heavyweight of Siberia' variety, and now I am not cheating on him. What did you like? First, with a picture on the packaging and a description of the variety: early maturing and large-fruited in combination with a low-growing type of bush (up to 60 cm) And even tasty, and you don't need to pinch! And fruits weighing up to 500 grams are just what you need! “Great!” I said to myself and bought a bag of seeds.

In the very first year, 'Heavyweight of Siberia' showed its Siberian tough character, reaching a height of about 170 cm! I put it in three branches, removed the rest of the stepsons. The fruit set low, as it should be for a stunted type of bush, and began to grow and gain weight.

'Heavyweight of Siberia '. In my opinion, it looks seriously Siberian!

The fruits of this tomato are flattened heart-shaped, the color is deep pink. They begin to ripen around mid-July.

The first "batch" is maturing

The fruits on the first clusters weigh a little more - a little less than 500 g, and the next 400-300 g.

Two heavyweight buddies pulled a kilogram

The Heavyweights taste excellent! They are sweet, fleshy, sugar on the break, and just begging to be in your mouth! One tomato is enough for a salad for two.

Look what a Siberian is in the context! Like a sugar watermelon! It contains both pulp and juice - everything is enough!

The fruits of the 'Heavyweight of Siberia' are also good for juice! It turns out thick, fleshy, sweet, just the way our family loves!

As a result, although the 'Heavyweight of Siberia' did not live up to my hopes for short stature, although it was necessary to stepchild him, I fell in love with him seriously and for a long time! After all, in all other respects he is a reliable, solid, strong Siberian who looks calmly at the weather foolishness and does not leave me without a crop! If you are still in the process of searching for large-fruited tomatoes of excellent taste, then pay attention to my favorite 'Heavyweight of Siberia'!

Greenhouse or garden bed?

The seed bag usually indicates where it is best to grow this tomato - in a greenhouse or without shelter. You should not ignore this information: tomatoes for open ground in a greenhouse will give a meager harvest, and an open-air greenhouse hybrid will suffer.

Hybrids are usually planted in greenhouses. This will help increase the yield by at least 30%. Medium to tall tomatoes take full advantage of the size of the greenhouse, and early and medium ripening hybrids planted together will help extend the yield over time. Keep in mind: the taller the plant, the later the fruit ripens.

Watch the video: Late Harvest Live

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