Learning to grow juniper from seed

Many gardeners enjoy growing junipers in their garden plots. This unpretentious plant feels good even in adverse conditions and has a pronounced persistent coniferous aroma. One way to breed junipers is from seed. It is not very popular as it is considered difficult and painstaking. But with some effort, you will succeed and be able to grow strong, healthy seedlings.

Growing juniper from seed

Because juniper seedlings are usually expensive, gardeners are more likely to seed them on their own. Although it is time consuming, it is the least expensive financially. Correctly carried out stratification and nutrient soil for planting practically guarantee a positive result.

Juniper seedlings are expensive, so many grow them from seed.

Seeds are harvested by collecting fruits from biennial plants. The collection is carried out in the first decade of September. Green fruits are not suitable as planting material, only cone-berries that are in the darkening stage, but not yet completely dark, are suitable... In overripe fruits, the seeds become dormant, you will have to spend a lot of time to germinate them.

Choose fruits that have begun to darken but are not overripe yet

In order not to be mistaken in choosing the right cone berries, take the advice of my neighbor, who has been growing junipers for a long time. Spread a newspaper or cloth under the tree and lightly shake the trunk. Ripe fruits fall on their own, you just have to reject those that are darker.

Just shake the juniper and the ripe cone-berries will fall off by themselves.

After harvesting, pre-prepare the seeds. Without it, seeds can germinate for a very long time or not at all. Place the fruits in water and rinse, rubbing so that the seeds come out. Their dense shell must be broken to ensure rapid germination..

Pretreatment of juniper seeds is very important for successful germination

Note! Treated seeds usually take about 3 months to germinate, but if they are not prepared, they will not sprout until after a year.

For processing, you can choose one of the following methods.

  1. Natural stratification, or snowing. Fill the box with a substrate of equal parts peat, sand and moss, and moisten it. Spread out the seeds and sprinkle with a layer of the same soil. Take the box outside for the winter and let it sit for 150 days during the cold season. In the spring, transfer to a warm place and cover with foil.
  2. Leave the seeds for half an hour in a weak acidic solution, then remove and rinse. You can also place them in ash, rub them well, and take them out after 3 weeks.
  3. Mechanical restoration. The seeds need to be well rubbed between sheets of sandpaper. You can also put sandpaper in a jar, pour seeds there and shake vigorously until the shells are broken. In this case, the seeds must be planted immediately.

Video: stratification of coniferous seeds

Planting juniper seeds

When the seeds are overwintered or otherwise prepared, they are planted. This should be done in late March or early April, after the snow has completely melted.

  1. Choose a landing site. It should be warm and well lit. The first 2 weeks you will have to cover the seedlings so that the sun's rays do not harm them.
  2. Juniper seeds need a soft, fertilized soil. Prepare it yourself, taking peat, sand and turf in a 2: 1: 1 ratio.

    Provide juniper crops with good lighting and nutritious soil

  3. Make 2 grooves 2 cm deep in the prepared soil. Compact the bottom and place the prepared seeds at a short distance to each other.
  4. Cover the plantings with the remaining substrate or humus, pour a centimeter layer of mulch from shavings or peat on top. This will help keep the soil moist and accelerate the growth of sprouts.

Differences in growing different types of juniper

In the wild, the plant propagates by seed, but this method does not allow the varietal characteristics to be preserved. For example, hybrid species for decorative purposes are recommended to be propagated vegetatively, by cuttings. This is due to the fact that pollination is provided by the wind, and in such conditions ornamental varieties do not produce full-fledged seeds.

Juniper rarely grows tall in its natural environment.

The following types are considered the most popular due to their simplicity in growing:

  • ordinary;
  • scaly;
  • Cossack;
  • Virginia;
  • rocky.

In each of the presented species, there are 4–5 more varieties.

What problems can there be when growing seedlings

Juniper crops will need care. The soil in which they are located must be constantly moistened. It should not be dry, otherwise the sprouts will wither and not be able to develop. But waterlogging is also unacceptable: it will cause rotting of seeds. Keep the soil slightly moist.

By the way, try to water the seedlings not just with water, but with the one that remains after washing the meat. This is a really effective way. Only water should be at room temperature. One friend of mine even watered the juniper (like all her house plants) with water, in which she washed the dishes with detergent. But I did not dare to use this method. Although this friend's plants really look beautiful and healthy.

Until the sprouts turn into full-fledged seedlings, 3-4 years will pass... Provide seedlings with fertilizers all this time. To do this, it is enough to mulch the soil with humus every autumn, the layer of which should be 4 cm.

Be sure to weed the seedlings. Do this carefully, carefully removing the weeds. The soil should always be loosened and soft.

Video: growing juniper from seed yourself

Reviews of gardeners about growing juniper from seeds

It is difficult to grow a juniper from seeds, it is much easier to dig up a tiny bush in the forest, but for this they can be fined. I had a bad experience of growing juniper from seeds, placed them in excessively fertile soil. But then I took everything into account and it turned out, a couple of bushes grew. Create the seeds close to natural conditions, exposing the box to frost is also good, mix more sand in the soil, do not fill it.

You need to keep them in the refrigerator before sowing. That way they will rise better.

Does anyone have any experience in growing juniper from seed?

Last fall I planted many different types of seeds (juniper) that I found on "agbin", but for example "ordinary" did not grow at all, others are very good. I'm just interested in the common juniper. what could be the trick of planting it with seeds?

When planting in autumn, juniper seeds should be planted in the ground 1.5 - 2 months before the soil freezes. Otherwise they will not rise!

I grow junipers from seeds, I buy seeds at the pharmacy.

Good day.

Planted juniper seeds 3 months ago, here's the result - JUNIPER

So far, everything is fine, a little watering 1 time in 2 days, I turn on phytolamps for a day, I sprayed it a couple of times with foundation. The temperature in the room is 20-25C.

I wanted to ask about, maybe, further actions for the winter, there is a balcony (a little warmer than outside) - there is from +5 to -2C.

Maybe some additives like BIOHYPER EXTRA ... Or don't we change anything until spring?

Although growing juniper seedlings from seed is considered time consuming due to its duration, this is the optimal method. The main thing is to follow the rules and recommendations, and in the end, the long-awaited result will delight you.

[Votes: 2 Average: 3.5]

These majestic plants bloom in early summer, and then again in early fall, if dead shoots are removed in time. These cultures attract attention not only for their original shape, but also for their rich colors. Numerous shades of blue, rarely found in plants, can be seen: luminous blue, cobalt, sapphire, ultramarine and violet. White and pastel pink delphinium varieties also delight in their splendor.

At home, seeds are stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. With such storage, they do not lose their ability to germinate even after 10 years of storage. Poor seed quality results in a lack of reproduction. Therefore, very often, when buying seeds from unknown producers, gardeners are faced with the fact that, planting according to all the rules, they do not get the desired result. The reason is simple - the seeds were stored incorrectly.

If seeds are stored at room temperature in paper wrappers, most of them will be spoiled in less than a year.

Another important factor in seed selection is the definition of the plant variety. Despite the great variety of species, hybrids are most often cultivated - varieties of garden delphiniums, since they are the most spectacular.

Their impressive shapes and unusual colors do not at all resemble the modest-looking common species. Cultivars created by many breeders around the world most often belong to groups that differ in a wide range of colors. However, these species are also distinguished by the vigor of growth and the shape of the flowers. Among them, both annual and perennial plants can be found.

One of the most popular is the Pacific type of hybrids that appeared in the United States. They are characterized by strong growth (up to 1.8 m), weakly branched inflorescences and large flowers. The following varieties have the ability to reproduce well from seed, although the offspring plants may differ slightly from the parent species:

  • Astolat - with pink flowers "
  • "Black Knight" - has deep purple flowers "
  • "King Arthur" - with purple hues
  • "Snow White Galahad"
  • "Summer sky" - with blue and white flowers
  • "Light blue Ariel"
  • "New Zealand Giant" - these well-growing plants produce strong shoots (160 cm) and large flowers
  • "Little Red Riding Hood" - with red bright flowers
  • "Butterfly mix" Is a mixture of white, blue, blue, pink flowers
  • "Belladonna" - with blue or blue flowers, the plant is outwardly closer to wild species, the height is lower (60-130 cm), blooms in May and June.

Which variety is right?

If you are fired up with the idea of ​​obtaining clematis from seeds without fail, you will have to seriously approach the process of choosing a variety suitable for breeding.

  • For beginners who are just planning to learn all the secrets of growing clematis from seeds, better to start with the Manchu variety... These plants look more like bushes than vines. In summer, the shoots are covered with small white flowers that exude a pleasant aroma. Manchurian clematis is easy to care for and grow, so there are no problems with it.

  • "Arabella" - This is an unpretentious clematis, which belongs to late-flowering and large-flowered vines. Flowering will continue from May to September if the plant is in ideal conditions. Flowers reach 10 cm in diameter, are painted in a purple shade with gray notes. Throughout the season, the lilac color changes to blue, which makes the vine spectacular and expressive.

  • "Blue Light" refers to early vines. Terry flowers, painted blue. Shoots with a length of about 2 meters cling well to the supports with the help of leaf petioles. This clematis blooms 2 times a year, well suited for growing in containers.

  • "Blue Explosion" - the result of the work of Polish breeders. The liana is decorated with large blue flowers, in which pinkish notes can be traced. The diameter of the flower starts at 12 cm, and the length of the stems reaches 3 m. This clematis can be enjoyed twice a year.

  • "Westerplatte" is held in high esteem among gardeners, as evidenced by numerous positive reviews. This variety also originated in Poland. The stems grow up to 2 meters, they are decorated with sparkling, red, large flowers.

  • "Helios" with proper seed cultivation, it can give good results. The seeds can be bought at a specialty store or even harvested by yourself. Clematis of this variety is a vigorous plant with stems up to 3 m high. From June to August, the liana is decorated with a scattering of small yellow flowers that have an inverted shape.

  • "Daches Eydinburg" blooms early, releasing large terry flowers of snow-white color in the shape of a ball. The stems grow up to 3 m.

  • "Dr. Ruppel" is the most original variety from our selection. The color of large flowers changes depending on the lighting: a fuchsia-colored strip is located on a pink background, or a lavender flower is decorated with a pink strip. Liana blooms twice a year.

  • "Cloudburst" Is a late variety with large flowers. It was recently bred by Polish breeders. Shoots grow up to 2.5 meters in length, they are decorated with flowers with a pink-purple color, a white center and pink veins. The petals are diamond-shaped, wavy, sharp edges.

  • "Comtesse de Bouchaud" it blooms late, is considered a strong crop, the shoots of which grow up to 4 m. Pink flowers appear twice a year.

  • "Clematis Long Fire" really resembles fire due to bright flowers, which reach 16 cm in diameter.Although repeated flowering is not typical for this plant, this clematis already produces many flowers that completely cover the vine. The height of the stems does not exceed 1.5 m.

  • "Omoshiro" is originally from Japan. It blooms twice a year, three-meter stems are covered with large snow-white or delicate pink flowers.

  • "Change of Hart" - This is a strong clematis with two-meter stems, which are covered with red flowers with a purple tint 2 times a year. The diameter of the flowers starts from 10 cm.

  • "Etual Violet" fell in love with gardeners for its unpretentiousness, abundant flowering, spectacular purple flowers and the possibility of seed reproduction.

We strongly recommend using the seed of these particular clematis, especially if this is the first experience. With these varieties, the chances of success increase.

How to properly collect planting material

Usually, seed for propagation begins to collect from mid-summer to early fall. The seed boxes should turn yellow or reddish during this period. It is not recommended to use overripe seeds for sowing. Experienced flower growers advise using boxes with a slight blush to collect the seed. In their opinion and experience, “babies” from immature testes are better than from fully ripe ones.

To extract the seed, you need to carefully cut the box in two. Take care not to damage the grain, remove it from the pulp. It is normal for the extracted kernels to have a different shape and color than the purchased ones.

Bonsai from seed

If you want to have a new and unusual plant, then you can breed bonsai. The journey from the seeds to the finished tree is long and arduous, but the result will be a real pleasure.

Any specimen can be grown by this method, but you should be aware of the breeds that are most amenable to this process.

Better to use trees that grow in your area, such as spruce or pine. It can also be other conifers - fir, cypress, cedar.

Tropical species that are suitable for "miniaturization" are boxwood, myrtle, acacia. An affordable houseplant that is fairly easy to turn into bonsai is the ficus plant.

Among broadleaf species, miniature analogs to growing giants can be: bushy hornbeams, maples, birches, spreading elms, Japanese beeches and pomegranate trees.

To create a miniature, you can purchase an adult tree, or cultivate with seeds. How to grow a bonsai tree is up to you, in any case, the creation of a dwarf miniature will take about five years.

How to grow dogwood

If, nevertheless, it was decided to grow a dogwood from a stone, work will have to be done on the preparation of seed material. And first, decide which type of dogwood is best to use for planting. In the wild form of berries, the bone takes up a lot of space and the amount of pulp is negligible. Garden varieties have large berries with a lot of pulp and a relatively small pit. But in absolute terms, the seeds of the garden dogwood are larger than the wild one.

Seed preparation takes a long time, if the gardener did not follow the path of "sticking unripe berries and the earth, they will suddenly grow." Therefore, you don't have to worry about preparing the soil for planting for about six months.

The difference between garden and wild seeds

The idea to grow dogwood from seeds usually comes up after buying fresh berries. Drying today takes place in an unnatural way, and at high temperatures in an accelerated mode. In this case, the embryos die.

The differences between garden and wild berries are clearly visible. But there are such differences between the bones:

  • the seeds of garden varieties are objectively larger than those of a wild plant
  • the tip of the garden seed has a sharp, needle-like thorn, which is absent in wild seeds.

For comparison, a photo of the seeds of a wild dogwood.

And a photo of garden dogwood seeds.

Preparation of planting material

The embryo in the seed is formed much earlier than the fruits ripen. And this applies to any fruit and berry crops. Therefore, one of the simplest ways to grow a dogwood from a stone is to bury unripe berries in the ground, mark this place in the garden and water it periodically. If the berries were buried in the summer, it is possible that the shell will have time to rot, stratification will occur naturally in winter, and shoots will appear in spring. Or they will sprout next spring. If the sprouts did not appear in the first spring, you need to wait a year. At this time, you will have to carefully remove the weeds so as not to pull out the planted bone along with the weeds.

When buying a mature dogwood, preparation takes 1.5 years and requires mandatory stratification of seeds.

Method of obtaining planting material from ripe berries:

  • the fruits are poured with water and left for several days until signs of fermentation appear
  • the water is drained, the pulp is kneaded and washed thoroughly with water until peeled seeds are obtained
  • clean bones are dried, sprinkled with sawdust or sand and placed in the refrigerator
  • at the end of February, the seeds are removed from the refrigerator and left to warm up for a week
  • before planting, the shell is either carefully filed or chipped on a whetstone.

If it is not possible to file the shell, you should prepare for the fact that the sprout will appear only after a year. For 12 months, the soil will have to be kept moist so that the bacteria can destroy the shell.

Soil preparation

Cornel is a plant that grows on relatively scarce, highly calcified soils. Its natural environment is mountains of limestone deposits.

The soil for planting should be light and permeable. Under natural conditions, this is a rotted forest litter that allows water to pass through well.

For growing at home, the soil is prepared from three equal parts of humus, black soil and sand. Instead of humus, it is better to take leafy soil. All ingredients are mixed and some chalk is added. Fertilizers are not needed.

The pot is selected not as high as wide. Dogwood trees have a superficial, well-developed root system. A drainage layer is placed below the pot so that water does not stagnate in the container when growing dogwood.

It will not work to grow a dogwood bush in a pot so that it also bears fruit. At home, sprouts can only be kept until the moment when they can be planted in the garden in a permanent place. The feeding area of ​​one cornelian tree on fertile soil is 4.5x4.5 m. On poor soil - 49 m².

Planting and caring for sprouts

The prepared bones are placed in the ground to a depth of 3 cm and watered thoroughly. The pot is covered with a film so that excess moisture is not lost, and placed in a warm place. The sprouts can take a couple of months or a year to grow. After the emergence of seedlings, the film is removed. The pot is placed out of the reach of direct sunlight.

No special care for the seedlings is required. You just need to keep the ground slightly damp and periodically gently loosen the surface layer.

Young seedlings at the initial stage of growth need full care. Therefore, during this period, plants need to provide favorable conditions for growth and development.


When friendly shoots appear, the temperature should be lowered to 18-19 degrees and kept for one week. This mode allows you to slow down the growth of the ground part of the seedlings and stimulates the development of the root system.

When the seedlings get stronger, the temperature should be raised to + 20 degrees. And keep it at this level all the time.

Watering and feeding schedule

Seedlings should be watered sparingly when the topsoil dries out. For this, it is recommended to use settled water at room temperature. Stagnation of moisture should not be allowed, as this can provoke the development of a black leg, and lead to the death of seedlings. When growing seedlings, watering is recommended at the root as needed.

Calibrachoa responds well to feeding, so it is better to fertilize every 10 days. At the initial stage, it is necessary to use complex mineral supplements intended for seedlings. You can buy them at any flower shop. They are distinguished by a balanced composition, which will ensure uniform growth of the shoots and the root system.


To increase the bushiness of seedlings, it is recommended to pinch the shoots. When growing calibrachoa, this should be done for the first time when the plant height reaches 5-6 cm. In this case, it is better to cut the tops with scissors so as not to damage the plant. The resulting material can be used for rooting.

All subsequent procedures must be carried out as new shoots grow. This slows down the onset of flowering.

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